Please read the Warranty certificate before attempting any service on your power unit. The motor in
your power unit DOES NOT require oiling. The bearings have been lubricated and sealed at the factory.
Tampering in any way with the motor blower will invalidate your warranty. Your central vacuum system
has been engineered to provide many years of carefree service. Should your system for some reason
fail to function properly, the following chart and instructions should help you to restore efficient service
promptly. Check the chart for symptoms and then read across to determine the probable cause. The
probable causes are numbered for your convenience and after you have found your symptom refer to
the directions for checking that item.
1. Power Cord - Make sure that the power cord is plugged into an operating receptacle of the proper voltage
and current for your unit.
2. Push-to-Reset Circuit Breaker - If your unit has experienced an over current or extremely high
temperature, the button will pop out. To reset, simply push the button in until it protrudes about 1/8 inch
and stays in. If the breaker pops out again when the unit is used - call Tidy House.
3. Circuit Breaker in House Panel - Check your house breaker panel - If the circuit breaker if off, you may
have too many appliances utilizing that circuit. For best results, your power unit should be on a separate
circuit. Try to remove some of the extra circuit load by unplugging other devices. If the breaker continues
to cut off - call Tidy House.
4. Internal Thermal Switch in Unit - If your unit comes equipped with an internal thermal switch and quits
running, it may require 10 minutes to cool off before resetting itself.
5. Electrical Wall Outlet Plug - Sometimes the electric wiring from the house breaker panel to the wall outlet
plug can become loose or broken. Plug a lamp or another electric appliance into the outlet to assure that
you are getting power. If not, call your electrical contractor.
6. Switch in the Wall Inlet Stuck in Off Position - Plug your flexible hose into the other wall inlets - if your
unit functions normally then the problem lies in the switch or remote control circuit to the inoperative inlet
valve. The bolts holding the micro-switch in the inlet valve may have loosened allowing it to move out of
position. Remove the wall inlet face plate and tighten the bolts or call your service man.
7. Switch in the Wall Inlet Stuck in On Position - Use your finger to roll the steel ball located in the top
of the neck of the inlet. Some foreign material may have become lodged in the hole with the ball,
preventing it from moving into its proper position. Caution: if this procedure does not turn your unit
off, unplug the power cord and notify your service technician.
8. Remote Control Wire - Broken - Usually, if more than one wall inlet is inoperative, the trouble is in the
remote control wiring, and the wire is either loose or broken, and should be tightened or replaced.
9. Remote Control Wire - Shorted - Unplug one of the remote control wires that is attached to the side
of the power unit - if the unit stops, it indicates that the remote control wire is shorted or one of the wall
inlet switches is stuck in the on position. If the procedure for number 6 does not shut the unit off and
you cannot locate the short, notify your service man. If the unit does not stop running when you unplug
the remote control wire - either the short is in the power unit wiring or the relay is stuck. Refer to
number 20. Caution: Checking the wiring in the power unit should only be attempted by a qualified
10. Flexible Hose - Plugged - If proper airflow is not obtained through the hose, remove the hose from the
vacuum inlet, then start the power unit by activating the wall inlet switch. If the airflow, at the inlet, is good,
then this will normally indicate a blockage in the hose or wand. If blockage is in the wand, it can be
disassembled and cleaned. If blockage is in the hose, the hose should first be laid out straight, then with
the hose plugged into the inlet valve and the power unit running, pick up the hose, starting at the end furthest
from the valve and gently stretch about two feet of it at a time as you proceed along the length of the hose
toward the inlet valve. It this does not clear the stoppage, then remove the hose cuffs by unscrewing them,
and switch them to the other ends of the hose (these cuffs have left hand screw threads so rotate them in
a clockwise direction to unscrew from the hose). After this has been done replace the hose in the inlet valve
and with the power unit operating, repeat the process of stretching the hose. If this fails to unclog the hose,
run (handle first) a screwdriver with at least a 3/4" diameter handle through the hose.
11. Tubing in Wall - Clogged - Check the airflow at the power unit. If the airflow is good here but not at
locations further from the power unit, your tubing is either clogged or has broken open. If you cannot repair
this, contact your service man. If you turn the power unit on and leave the inlet valve furthest from the power
unit open and then check the exhaust from the power unit, you can determine whether you have a break
in the tubing or whether the tubing is clogged. If very little air is coming out of the exhaust of the power unit,
then it is probably an obstruction in the tubing and not a break.
12. Dirt Canister - Over Filled - Whenever low airflow is experienced the first thing to check is the dirt canister
for over filling or clogged filter bag (some models). Refer to Number 13. Read the Operations section of
this manual for information on how to clean your dirt canister.
13. Filter Bag - Clogged (some models) - Read the Operations section of this manual for information on how
to remove and clean your filter bag.
14. Dirt Canister Lid - Off - On those models with lift off dirt canister lids, (check the Operations section of this
manual) the lid must be replaced squarely on top of the canister or it will allow a vacuum leak.
15. Dirt Canister Gasket - Loose - If the dirt canister gasket has been pulled loose, it will allow a vacuum leak.
The gasket may be reattached with contact cement or any of the so called "super glues".
16. Outside Exhaust - Blocked - Check the exhaust system by removing the tubing from the motor blower exhaust
and compairing the airflow at this point versus the airflow reaching the outside. If blockage is detected and
cannot be removed, contact Tidy House.
17. Dirt Canister - Not Attached - If the dirt canister latches (some models) are not properly closed, it will cause
an air leak along the gasket and reduce your cleaning ability.
18. Another Wall Inlet Door - Open - Check all the inlet valves to make sure that only one inlet is in use at a
time. Attempting to clean from two or more inlets at a time will reduce the airflow below the level required to
deep clean your carpets.
19. Motor Protection Screen - Clogged - This usually occurs due to allowing the dirt canister to over fill, or a
broken filter bag (some models). Refer to the Operations section of this manual for instructions on cleaning
the blower protection screen.
20. Relay Stuck - On - Refer to Number 9. If after using the procedures described in Number 9 it appears
that the relay is sticking on, unplug the power cord to cut off all electricity to the power unit. Caution:
Checking the wiring in the power unit should only be attempted by a qualified service technician.
21. Relay Stuck - Off - If the procedures described in Numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7, do not correct the power
unit not starting, then it could be a malfunction of the relay, the low voltage transformer could be burned out,
or there could be a loose wire in the power unit. If you suspect a malfuntion in the power unit, contact Tidy House.
22. Transformer - Burned Out - Refer to Number 21.
23. Loose Wire In the Power Unit - Refer to Number 21.
24. A Hose Plugged Into Another Inlet Valve - Cleaning from more than one inlet at a time will reduce the airflow
to less than is required to deep clean your carpets.
25. P.C. Board Relay stuck on - Refer to Number 9. If after using the procedures described in Number 8
it appears that the relay is sticking on, unplug the power cord to cut off all electricity to the power unit.
Caution: Checking the wiring in the power unit should only be attempted by a qualified service technician.
26. P.C. Board Transformer burned out - If the procedures described in Numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7, do
not correct the power unit not starting, then it could be a malfunction of the relay, the low voltage transformer
could be burned out, or there could be a loose wire in the power unit. If you suspect a malfunction in the power
unit, contact Tidy House.
27. LED Light- Some units have an LED light at the unit. If the LED light is not on, refer to number 5. If you
have power at the unit but LED light is off, contact Tidy House.
If you are still having a problem, contact Dr. Dave here!